How to Install a Vent in Drywall?

Cutting and putting drywall around gaps in the wall, such as air vents, is one of the tougher components of drywall installation for beginners. Before attaching the sheet to the wall, the opening must be carved into the drywall. This means you’ll need to take some precise measurements of the air vent’s location in relation to the adjacent walls and floor. With a little attention and the proper tools, you can do the work correctly.

How to Install a Vent in Drywall?

Step 1

Determine the present air vent opening’s height from the floor. Take measurements at both the bottom and top of the air vent. Take note of the present air vent opening’s distance from the adjacent wall. Calculate the distance between the closest and farthest points from the wall. On a sheet of paper, jot down the measurements.

Step 2

Trace the measurements onto the drywall piece that will cover the existing air vent. Bear in mind the distance above the floor at which the drywall will be mounted — typically 3/8 inch. On the sheet of drywall, use your ruler as a straight edge to design a rectangle box replicating the opening.

Step 3

With a utility knife, score the lines into the drywall. Cut the opening out of the sheet of drywall using a keyhole saw.

Step 4

Arrange the drywall sheet on the wall, with the aperture over the air vent. The sheet should be secured in place using screws or nails.

Step 5

Place the air vent cover over the aperture. With a pencil, trace the two screw holes in the air vent cover onto the drywall.

Step 6

Drill a hole in the drywall at each of the listed locations and install a hollow wall anchor.

Step 7

Insert the anchor’s screws into the air vent cover’s screw hole apertures. Cover the vent with the cover. Tighten the screws into the hollow wall anchors until the vent is securely fastened to the drywall.

Air Purifiers or Air Vents

While air purification and ventilation are sometimes conflated, they have markedly distinct effects on the air quality in your home. To put it simply, air purification cleans and reuses existing air, whereas air ventilation drives out old air and brings in clean, fresh air.

Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of indoor air quality, and recent events have heightened their awareness about what they breathe at home. As consumers engage with their builders or self-install air solutions in their homes, it is critical for them to understand the difference between filtration and ventilation in order to make the best indoor air choices.

Air purifiers

The process of air purification, or filtration, is the removal of particles from the air. Particulate matter includes allergies, automobile exhaust, and combustion gasses. Air purification cleans and recirculates the existing air in the home but does not introduce any fresh air. Additionally, it is incapable of assisting with harmful gasses and finer particulates that are too small to be captured by many filters. There are numerous stand-alone air purifiers available, as well as a range of filters compatible with HVAC systems.

True HEPA filtration, where HEPA stands for High Efficiency Particulate Arresting, or High Efficiency Particulate Air, is the gold standard for physical air filtration that air purifiers employ. Additionally, HEPA filters are used in a wide variety of applications, including vacuum cleaners, vehicles, and even aircraft. To qualify as a True HEPA filter, however, a HEPA air filter must be certified to remove 99.97 percent of all microscopic particles as small as 0.3 microns in size, the smallest particle that may enter your lungs. Particles are measured in microns, which are one millionth of a meter. To assist you in visualizing the size of a micron, we are unable to see anything smaller than ten microns. Additionally, the sizes of particles such as dust, pollen, bacteria, and viruses are listed below. Get one of the best air purifiers for your home can help you improve your indoor air quality.

Air ventilations

Ventilation is literally a breath of fresh air. Air ventilation removes stale, dirty air and replaces it with fresh, filtered air. There are two types of ventilation:

Spot Ventilation

Spot ventilation removes dirty air from a specific region of your home, allowing for the introduction of fresh air. In this instance, we’re referring to bath fans and kitchen range hoods equipped with an outside exhaust. Bathrooms and kitchens contribute significantly to air pollution due to their high humidity (showers, boiling water, steam) and culinary odors (sizzling bacon grease, oven smoke, gas range fumes).

Spot ventilation in those locations assists in removing moisture and odors from the air before it is circulated throughout the house. By removing contaminated air from the household, it depressurizes it and creates space for fresh air to enter.

Whole-house Ventilation

Whole-house ventilation is similar to spot ventilation in that it continuously eliminates stale air and brings in fresh air for the entire home. Today’s homes are built more tightly and with more efficient sealing, which results in less natural air entering through small holes and crevices. Whole-home ventilation addresses this by regularly and efficiently cycling in new air.

What is the best method for ventilating my home?

Three fundamental types of whole-house ventilation exist. The first is an exhaust fan that runs continuously. Generally, this fan works constantly at a lower CFM, removing stale air from the home and naturally replacing it. They are most effective in low-humidity climate zones. The second type is a fresh air supply fan, which draws in fresh air from the outside. These fans include filters and frequently feature high-MERV filtering to purify the air before it enters the home. Supply fans are typically more suitable to humid conditions. The third alternative, dubbed “balanced ventilation,” is the healthiest and most energy-efficient option available and is applicable to every temperature zone.

Two excellent balanced choices are available: HRVs (heat recovery ventilators) and ERVs (energy recovery ventilators). Both exhaust stale air and bring in fresh air, but HRVs transfer the heat lost during the air exchange, while ERVs transfer both heat and humidity levels, allowing you to maintain the desired temperature and humidity levels in your house. Both systems are equipped with two fan mechanisms: one for air output and another for air intake. Additionally to ventilation, these systems provide excellent air purification by eliminating particles from the incoming air via filters.

Best of all, HRVs and ERVs conserve energy by not re-heating or cooling all incoming fresh air. Rather than that, you use the incoming air to temper it – which you previously paid to heat/cool. Additionally, they assist in meeting new code requirements regarding the amount of fresh air that should be brought in (the average home should maintain 60 CFM of air flow out and in).